Old School Rules

I have created a set of horse and musket rules inspired by the classics such as those by Grant and Young as well as a one pager titled “Universal Rules for War Games” published in 1958 and authored by A.H. Saunders.  I found this last one online but can’t remember where and unfortunately I do not have any information about the author.  Anyhow, I wanted something more economical than the classic rules and ones that could be easily modified so have been making my own. My initial goals were:

1. Old school feel: units with individually based figures
2. Brevity: core rules limited to two sides of one page
3. Simplicity: something intuitive enough for a novice to grasp quickly
4. Economy: minimum number of dice rolls and modifiers to get a result
5. Morale: simple but something better than last man standing

I have attached a copy of the rules for those interested.

Old School Rules

Unit sizes and movement rates have been sized to accommodate time and available space.  Infantry units are 32 soldiers with additional officers, ensigns, etc. as shown here.

I also tried to make the combat rules, such as musketry, less “bloody” than the classic rules and have less steps.  I accomplished this by having one die roll serve as the “to hit” roll as well as the “casualty” roll.  The mechanism is to roll a certain number or less to hit and have that number also equal the number of casualties caused (per group of eight firing soldiers).  This allows for distinctions by range and a unit’s “first fire” in a single die roll without the need for additional modifiers.  

Morale rules are simple but prevent units fighting to the last man while allowing for the possibility that an “under strength” unit may carry on, at least for a little while.  Again, these rules are a distillation of various old school mechanisms with changes to suit the goals listed above.  They are not comprehensive by any means but easily amended and perhaps useful for those familiar with the classic rules but who want a concise set to use as a base for their own amendments.   

How to Paint 1/72 Plastic Miniatures

I found a post in the Tips section of the Hat website many years ago that described a method of painting plastic figures so the paint won’t flake off even if handled roughly.  I have tried many methods posted on TMP - washing with soapy water, using spray primer designed for plastics etc. - and this is the only method that has worked for me.  I painted some Zvezda GNW Russians as SYW French, individually based for old school rules.

 First, trim figures and glue to craft sticks. I do not wash them.

Next, I coat with a craft glue, Aleene’s Tack-It Over and Over.  Coat figures thoroughly but sparingly
as to not lose the figures detail.  I let dry over night.  The glue, even when dry will remain sticky which helps form a strong bond between the paint and the figures.

Next, I prime the figures with either spray or brush on paint.

I then paint the figures and seal them with Liquitex Matt Varnish.  I base the figures individually on 18mm round Litko bases and flock.

Here’s a picture of the finished unit and finally a picture of how I store them.  As you can see, I just scoop them up and put them in a box.  The figures are very durable and do not chip.  

My Old School Miniatures

Here are a few pics of my 18th century miniatures - all 1/72 plastics from Zvezda, Hat and Revell. The units are based individually for Charge! type Old School rules that I have created.  Infantry units at 32 figures, light infantry and cavalry 16 figures.  The units are loosely based on actual historical units from War of Austrian Succession and Seven Years War.   All terrain is scratch built.

                               Revell Austrian artillery painted as British Seven Years War artillery

French artillery 

Hessian Grenadiers

Chasseurs de Fischer (Zvezda GNW Russians with heads swapped for Zvezda Prussian Hussars)

Gardes Francaises

Prussian Hussars

Legion Britannique